London

When I first published this page in 2013, I wrote: London is a city I could easily live in. I feel like I'm home whenever I visit.

2023. I have now lived here since 2019, in Chiswick, West London - 15 minutes from South Kensington by tube, but close to the magical towns of Kew and Richmond. The first few months were tough, and then COVID (!). But now, I feel so grateful to live here, am a total fan of the NHS, and have new favorite places all over the city. The easiest way is to think about London is as a collection of villages, divided into north, south, east, west, and central.

The best way to see London is to walk it, though the weather has to cooperate–through all the lovely parks and neighborhoods. I love the Tube, but the buses are also super easy, and it's a minor thrill to watch the world go by from the upper deck of a double-decker bus. Try picking up the Number 9 bus at High Street Kensington and taking it to Aldwych/Somerset House - it takes you through the heart of London.

South kensington/CHELSEA/BELGRAVIA 

Wander the King's Road in South Kensington, starting at Sloane Square, where the tube stops. Fun shopping and restaurants. On Sloane Square, I love Peter Jones department store and Partridge's Food Hall, a gourmet market that stocks hard-to-find American ingredients. 

Cafe Colbert: A great place for breakfast outside (or in!) on Sloane Square. 

The Anglesea Arms: Classic London gastropub feel. 

Riccardo's: Very neighborhood-y Italian restaurant on a quiet stretch of Fulham Road - very few tourists. 

Stroll down Walton Street to peek into tiny English shops like Dragons of Walton Street, which has the cutest ($$$$$) children’s furniture. Blue Almonds is the place for overpriced but dreamy baby shopping in London. 

Victoria & Albert Museum: Don't miss the stunning cafe. 

Chelsea Fishmonger: So even if I have no use for a grocery store, butcher, or fishmonger, I love seeing where local people buy their food. This place has some of the freshest fish in London, and they're committed to sustainability. And lucky you if you're staying at an apartment to buy and cook it. 

Stay

Blakes Hotel: Super romantic, globally designed boutique hotel with an amazing bar downstairs. Furnishings and decor were collected from all over the world by Anouska Hempel. For fans of The Crown: You can just picture rebellious, glamorous Princess Margaret having a drink here – she loved Blakes. Look for the two green lovebirds in a wrought-iron cage welcoming you in the lobby.

The Goring Hotel: A classic London hideaway, this family-owned hotel is beloved by the Royal Family. It’s even more famous now after Kate and the Middletons spent the night here before the Royal Wedding.

Kensington

Kensington Gardens/Kensington Palace and The Orangery: Such beautiful gardens! At Kensington Palace, Victoria Revealed is one of my favorite exhibitions in London, all about Queen Victoria’s life and how she lived it after losing her beloved Albert. The Orangery is a gorgeous place for lunch or afternoon tea. Built by Queen Anne, the 18th-century Orangery was the setting for royal parties and today still has a beautiful white interior and bright light.

Hyde Park is adjacent Kensington Gardens and my favorite part is the Italian Garden, with gorgeous fountains and sculptures.

Candella Tea Room (34 Kensington Church Street): The most adorable tiny tea room near Kensington Palace. From here, it's a 20-minute walk up to Notting Hill. 

Stay: So I've stayed at a lot of amazing hotels in London, but I have a soft spot for the Royal Garden Hotel, adjacent to Kensington Gardens. The price is usually right, and it's kind of like living at Kensington Palace since the hotel is right next to the entrance the royal family uses. Rooms can be tiny, but I'm rarely in my room when I'm in London. Fun rooftop bar. 

marylebone/MAYFAIR

Go to Marylebone High Street (aka Thayer Street) for a picturesque, lovely London high street. Stop at La Fromagerie, an amazing cheese shop.

Daunt Books: My favorite bookshop in London, with the best travel section in the world.

Mayfair: The most "Mary Poppins" of neighborhoods. It's ridiculously chic and lovely, but you also feel that half the homes are owned by foreigners who are never there – make sense? I like having dinner at well-known Locanda Locatelli, but it is in a slightly odd location attached to a Hyatt lobby. I also loved dinner at La Petite Maison behind Claridge's Hotel.

Burlington Arcade: Don't miss this historic covered shopping brigade in Mayfair. 

Stay: The Marylebone Hotel – Totally in love with this quiet, lovely neighborhood hotel. 

Stay (or gawk!): Claridge's (especially at Christmas to see whichever high-fashion tree there is that year) 

Stay (or gawk!): The Connaught Hotel

Stay (or gawk/drink tea!): The Dorchester - great for afternoon tea 

ST. JAMES/PICCADILLY

Fortnum & Mason: Open since 1707, you really can't miss this gorgeous department store (or looking through their famous picnic hampers). Just avoid it at Christmas – it's wall-to-wall people (though festive). I love their enormous jam wall and gourmet food on the bottom floor. Plus, afternoon tea here is wonderful! 

Prestat Chocolate Shop: Located in the Prince’s Arcade off Piccadilly, this Royal Warrant holder has the most amazing caramel and sea salt wafers and whimsical, colorful packaging.

Hatchard's Book Shop: London's oldest bookstore is right next to The Wolseley, one of my favorite places for breakfast in London, a grand old Europe-style cafe. 

Stay

The Savoy Hotel: One of my most memorable nights in London was spent (alone!) here, with an incredible view of the sparkling London Eye and Parliament. The hotel was completely refurbished in 2010 and it’s gorgeous. Great for afternoon tea too. 

BELGRAVIA/KNIGHTSBRIDGE

Harrod’s Food Hall: Yes, everyone else visiting London will come here too. But it’s still worth it to see the enormous spectacle of gorgeous food divided by cuisine, like Japanese, Italian or British home-cooked suppers. Also a great spot to pick up tea or inexpensive gifts. 

Harvey Nichols: I love this department store, mostly because Becky Bloomwood in Confessions of a Shopaholic loved it.

Ahhh, the Lakes District. I fell totally in love with the stunning natural beauty, clean air, beautiful lakes, great people (both locals and tons of visitors from all corners of England), hikes, and best of all...DOGS EVERYWHERE!

We based ourselves in Keswick, which was the best choice after seeing all the other towns. I loved them but they can get very crowded. In Keswick, we were further from the main lures of the district like the Beatrix Potter & William Wordsworth sites but it felt much more like an authentic, only in England feel. We met so many wonderful people here.

If you have very limited time, I'd recommend staying in Grasmere (The Red Lion has great deals) to be closer to all the sites, including the best gingerbread in the world (FOR REAL). But I think 3-4 nights is really ideal to get a good handle on all the lakes and to feel the local rhythm.

In Keswick, Howe Keld is a dream B&B - great owners, fab breakfast (smoked salmon & scrambled eggs, local sausage, pancakes, etc), comfortable rooms, cozy beds, great value. I had a single room and my parents shared another room. I saw many of the more expensive hotels and I'd pick Howe Keld hands-down.

One of my favorite pubs I've found anywhere in the world was The Dog & Gun and we went every night. Everyone we met was beyond friendly and there were so many dogs accompanying them! Nothing on the menu is fried - great soups, salads, and roasted deliciousness.

Nothing is very far in Keswick. A five-min walk leads you to the beautiful lake, Derwentwater. There was something wonderfully atmospheric about being here in the off-season.

I'd highly recommend Bel Cibo for dinner one night while you're in town - we couldn't get into the so-called "best" Italian restaurant, Casa Bella, but stumbled upon this place instead. LOVED IT - cozy, great eats, and we met the most wonderful couple at the table over. They warned us about our next destination, Haworth, and I am kicking myself for not listening to them - Haworth was the worst place I've stayed in England. It is known for the Brontë sisters (Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights) sites, but it was such a dumpy, creepy, unfriendly town. We stayed at the Old Registry and I couldn't get out of there fast enough. 

BATH

I love spending time in Bath, and always want more time to admire the perfect Georgian architecture and adorable cafes. 

Lunch at the Royal Crescent Hotel: For views of the hills, an expansive park in front to frolic, and great food in a very English setting. The hotel is the most luxurious option in town and just removed enough from the city center, but within walking distance to everything.

The Roman Baths - Brace yourself for crowds, especially large throngs of high school students, but you have to come here in Bath. You have to follow a certain route, and I darted through most everything at the beginning to get to the actual baths quickly. To me, that was the most interesting part.

Tea at The Pump Room after touring the Roman Baths - The Pump Room has been a gathering place for 2,000 years and still is today. Afternoon tea is wonderful. You can also try a glass of the hot spa water, with 43+ minerals (one sip was more than enough for me).

The Fashion Musuem - You won't need more than an hour - it's small but interesting to wander through the exhibits celebrating over 400 years of fashion

Visit Sally Lunn's for a famous BUN! They are gigantic - but get one to try it! 

Browse at the Highgrove Shop - Prince Charles' estate sells a large selection of items at this shop, all high-quality and a great reminder of your time in England.  He has always believed in business operating on a larger social level, serving the community and environment. 

Prior Park - I thought this park was a short walk away, but it took me 45 minutes to walk there from the center of Bath and much of it was uphill. I had my rental car and should have driven it. But it is worth finding - a peaceful park in a deep valley with stunning views of Bath. The Palladian Bridge is especially beautiful.

York 

So the longer you spend in England, the more you come to realize there is a bit of a...shall we say...rivalry between the north and south of England. In general, I prefer the south – London, the Cotswolds, (but I do LOVE the Lakes District in the north). York is a lovely little town

Middlethorpe Hall, York: A nice country house-style hotel near York. While I liked it, I would stay in the center of York next time. 

York Minster: Beautiful, enormous, center-of-town church – check it off your "European churches" list. 

Bettys York: Gorgeous tea shop – the perfect place to stop on a grey day in York. 

THE ISLES OF SCILLY

I dream of returning to the Isles of Scilly, a corner of the world 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall that I knew nothing about before I went.  English families holiday here year after year, like Prince Charles & Princess Diana, who came here for many years in a row when William and Harry were young.  Jude Law comes every year and said 'it reminds me of all the good things, not only about England, but the world on which we live. My family never feels safer than there.'

We stayed at the Star Castle Hotel on the island of St. Mary's, the largest island, which has a truly charming owner that wears many hats on the island, including fishing for the restaurants.

And you just can't miss the Tresco Abbey Garden on the island of Tresco, a huge draw for visitors. 

My National Geographic piece - The Isles of Scilly: The Land that Time Forgot

The Isle of Wight

Another lesser-known (to Americans) English island I fell in love with. Here, it's all about Osborne House, the huge Italianate seaside palace Queen Victoria commissioned to be built. You can visit her private beach and see the bizarre bathing machine (which looks a bit like a horse cart) that she used to protect her modesty. Touring the house itself — the Council Room, where Alexander Graham Bell introduced Victoria to the telephone and the ornate Durbar Room, designed by Rudyard Kipling’s father to celebrate her reign as Empress of India, are highlights — provides an intimate glimpse of the legendary queen’s life, and death (the room where she died is also open to the public).

I loved staying at the romantic Royal Hotel in Ventnor (on the island’s southern coast), an area that Charles Dickens proclaimed the “prettiest place I ever saw in my life.” The place still oozes seaside Victorian charm and remains popular with the artistic set.

Other England Highlights 

More highlights: a private visit to Highclere Castle (Downton Abbey!), a perfect pub in the Cotswolds, Coworth Park in Ascot, Lime Wood Hotel, Chewton Glen, and The New Forest in Hampshire, Hotel Penzance in Cornwall