Across the World in Mumbai, India

Everything is turned up a notch in India.  I mean way up.  Before I left, I found this quote of Mark Twain's:

"India, the land of dreams and romance, of fabulous poverty, of splendor and rages, of palaces and hovels, of famine and pestilence, of genii and giants and Aladdin lamps...the one land that all men desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give that glimpse for the shows of all the rest of the world combined."

The Gateway of India

And how true it is after just two days.  I just wrapped a very quick visit to Mumbai before moving on to Udaipur today.  I stayed at The Oberoi Mumbai, a super sleek hotel that caters to a business crowd but was really comforting for me.  As I toured the hotel, I kept thinking that this is the new face of modern luxury in India.

Lobby at the Oberoi Mumbai

I especially loved the bright red piano in the lobby and the pops of red woven throughout the entire hotel's decor.  The piano was put to great use in the evenings during cocktail hour and dinner. 

The sea-facing views at The Oberoi are fantastic with a look at the Queen's Necklace, or Marine Drive. Marine Drive is home to many Art Deco buildings and reminded me a little bit of South Beach.  Many of them are rent-controlled today and not well kept, unlike the newer, extremely pricey apartment buildings that are built next door. 

View of Queen's Necklace from Room at The Oberoi Mumbai

Locals in Mumbai try to book reservations at the hotel restaurants and often can't because tables are full. The Hotel Hassler in Rome is one of my favorites and I found out they have a relationship with the Oberoi Mumbai's Vetra Italian restaurant, providing recommendations for food and chefs.  I had the greatest Indian meal, especially the almond tikki, at Ziya, run by British superstar Chef Vineet Bhatia. 

Bedroom at The Oberoi MumbaiGreat bathroom at The Oberoi MumbaiLiving area & Desk in Suite

The spa at The Oberoi Mumbai is open TWENTY FOUR HOURS! I absolutely loved getting a treatment at 10:30 p.m. after a super packed day.  Granted, I fell asleep towards the end of the massage but it was still wonderful. 

Looking down to the lobby from the top floor

Every minute, 51 babies are born in India.  Cities like Mumbai, with a population north of 18 million, are a stunning study of contrast.  Americans know Mumbai from Slumdog Millionaire and I was excited to see the Victoria Terminus Station where they sang Jai Ho at the end, hands-down the most gorgeous train station I've ever seen. It's also absurdly busy, with 1,500 local trains running a day and 3,000 buses.  The architecture in downtown Mumbai, much of which remains from the British rule of 1858-1947, echoes of Victorian and English styles.  I had romantic visions of the colonial rule due to these buildings, though I know that is far from the truth. 

Victoria Terminus Station, Mumbai

But even in my brief visit, Mumbai is so much more than the slums, the larger ones existing on the outskirts of the city.  A quickly changing landscape with a frenetic pace but at the same time there are countless people on the streets sitting and doing nothing.  I could easily be friends with the men and women I met, all ambitious, smart, worldly and fun to talk with about our shrinking world.  Education is extremely important for India, as parents want their children to do better, to study at the universities here or leave and return to help make the country better. 

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai

The world's first BILLION-dollar home in MumbaiMy favorite $3 sandals at the markets in Mumbai

"26-11," as they call it over here, was the day in 2008 (started November 26, ended November 29) when terrorists took over famous landmarks and hotels in Mumbai, including The Oberoi Trident, which is connected to The Oberoi Mumbai by an underground passage.  Over 160 people were killed from these attacks.  And I just came from Amman, where hotels were attacked in 2005.  I haven't been scared for a minute.  How can you be? Every safety precaution is taken at these hotels, and overly so now.  These hotels are in cities that need to be visited to be fully understood.  I felt very safe in Mumbai, especially snuggled up in my bed at The Oberoi.  Little touches made this hotel for me, like the universal plug adapter at the computer desk, fluffy bathrobes and slippers, tech-savvy blackout screens for the windows, and most especially the pure, genuine service from the staff. 

Broadway: How to Succeed in Business Without Really Trying

There is nothing I love more than a great New York night. Nothing. Last week, we went to see How to Succeed in Business Without Really Trying and then had dessert and coffee at Joe Allen’s on Restaurant Row, W. 46th Street. 

The stage before the show

Yes, Daniel Radcliffe drew me in to the show.  And there were a couple moments at the beginning where I giddily thought “That’s Harry Potter!” And then, “Wow he’s really short.” And then I forgot about Harry Potter altogether because he was so fantastic in the role, singing, dancing and commanding the stage.  It’s a fun show, with a great supporting cast and I left thinking that Daniel Radcliffe can do anything.  He’s in the show until January, when Nick Jonas takes over the role. 

Joe Allen, New York City

After, we went around the corner to Joe Allen, a place that I felt nostalgic for as soon as I walked in and I had never been.  Open since 1965, the walls are covered in posters of notable Broadway flops, like Breakfast at Tiffany's.  

They’re famous for their banana cream pie so we split that and still had a lot left.  It’s gigantic and good, but I probably wouldn’t order it again.  The ultimate Broadway chick, Kristin Chenoweth, told Bon Appetit “At Joe Allen’s in New York, I order the banana cream pie.  It’s ridiculously good. I had it two nights ago. When I’m in town and I want to treat myself, that’s what I have.” 

Joe Allen used to give hefty discounts to struggling actors when it first opened and it’s still inexpensive by New York standards.  I will go back again and again on those Broadway nights. 

Three Lives Bookstore

Three Lives BookstoreI read more books on my iPad these days.  I NEVER thought I would EVER say that, but there it is. It’s just easier for my traveling life. But I still love all the little bookstores of the world (and Barnes & Noble never fails to cheer me up).  I especially love this one in the West Village, Three Lives.  I go in and browse, am never bothered unless I want to chat about new releases, and usually end up picking up a book or two. And doesn’t it look like a movie set? 

National Geographic Intelligent Travel: Cultural Treasures of Jordan

My first post is up on National Geographic's Intelligent Travel, about the incredible cultural treasures of Jordan.  Many travelers pop into Jordan only to see Petra and it is a huge mistake.  The country deserves at least a week of exploration.  Click here to read the post on National Geographic. 

The Otherworldly Desert of Wadi Rum"Jordan still flies under the radar of many travelers today, conjuring a sense of isolation and wonder. Once uncovered, the country is easy to fall in love with, as I did during a recent ten-day visit. I was captivated by the landscapes and the friendly Jordanian people, from the Bedouins in tents to the young professionals in Amman (60 percent of Jordan’s population is under the age of 30, which provides a striking contrast between modern lifestyles and deep-rooted traditions.)

My favorite discoveries went far beyond Petra, the bucket list destination and ancient Nabataean city featured in Hollywood films such as Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Here are four treasures I found on my trip..."

Read more here 

Taking America's Oldest Bike Path to Coney Island

Andy got a bike from his company a couple months ago and has loved riding around the city.  I’ve wanted to ride a bike on Ocean Parkway, America’s oldest bike path, out to Coney Island for awhile.  So I borrowed a bike, Andy took his, and we took off.  We ended up going about 32 miles round-trip and had an awesome time.  Ocean Parkway doesn’t start until you’re in Park Slope, Brooklyn, near Prospect Park.  So we started in Manhattan, rode over the Brooklyn Bridge, through Cobble Hill and on to Prospect Park.  Riding in Prospect Park was my favorite part because you can just cruise.  We entered the park through Grand Army Plaza and the famous arch.

Riding Through Cobble Hill, BrooklynEntering Prospect Park Through Grand Army Plaza

On the Prospect Park Bike PathI’m glad I had Andy because he looked on his iPhone and figured the path out.  We found this little sign below telling us how to follow Ocean Parkway when we exited the park and hopped on for the last 5 miles out. 

Sign for Ocean Parkway Path

One side of the parkway is for bikes and the other for pedestrians, though most pedestrians either A. had no idea or B. decided to be obnoxious and walk in the bike lane.  Still it’s a straight shot out to Coney Island through the old traditionally Jewish neighborhoods of Brooklyn, which I loved riding through. 

Ocean Parkway Bike PathWe got to Coney Island, fueled up with smoothies and enjoyed the late summer cooler weather. 

Coney Island BoardwalkAndy and his bike at Coney Island

The way back felt a lot quicker (as it always does) and we stopped at Lobo in Cobble Hill for lunch.  Andy has been on an endless quest for good breakfast tacos in NYC and he hit the jackpot here.  It’s not an Austin breakfast taco but he claims they are the best he’s had in New York thus far.  His hilarious post on the quest can be found here.

It was the greatest feeling to get home, shower and be completely exhausted from accomplishing something.  I want to shop for a bike of my own soon. 

One more photo that Andy captured and my favorite of the day: Yes, this man was jump roping. In his underwear. On the Manhattan Bridge with his clothes folded neatly in a pile next to him. I laugh at this every time I look at it. That's me on the left on the bike.