On a quiet street in Paris, close to the Eiffel Tower but not too close, is Chez L'Ami Jean. Out of our wonderful dinner here came one of my favorite action photos - the young apprentice in the kitchen, paused, not quite sure how to react yet, waiting earnestly to hear what the great chef Stéphane Jégo, his boss, will say next. That chef, by the way, is a totally charming rascal and to catch his gleaming eyes for a moment is one of the treats of dinner here.
It's rustic, it's loud (you won't want to spill too many secrets at your table as the next table over will be able to hear everything!), and it's French comfort food at its finest. Not a fan of rice pudding? Me neither. But the riz au lait here is a must. Come hungry - and build in some extra time for a long walk back to your hotel or apartment after dinner.